I first start with the LED Frame, which is still handbuild by myself.

In retrospect, I would use SMD Leds today, probably already assembled and
ready to go in LED strips. But since I would like to make all tables exactly the
same, I still use normal IR-Leds and a custom build frame. This is probably
the obvious choice for the DIY guy, and its actually quite fun if you only do it once.
In my case this is the 5th Frame I assembled, so the fun is… well not quite as fun
anymore

Material list for the frame:
- Aluminum profiles from local hardware/Home Depot style shop (1cmx1cm)
- Osram SFH-485p Leds (my Setup uses 166 LEDs for a 64×48cm Screen)
- 15 Ohm resitors (24)
- Electrical wires, soldering iron etc…

LED Array Wizard
Using the excellent LED Array Wizard -> link
I calculate the size of resistor I will need.
The following values have to be inserted into the form:

12  = Source voltage (Volts)
1.5 = diode forward voltage (Volts)
100 = diode forward current (mA)
49 = number of LEDs in your Array

Since I use LEDs on all four sides of the Sheet, I use 49 LEDs on the longer sides
and 35 on the shorter sides. By using multiples of seven, I can use the same type
of resistor on both sides.. This is a personal choice, and when you type in the values,
the wizzard gives you some alternatives as well..

See this Screenshot of the result form the wizzard:

The Leds…

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Step 1 - Make the profile for the LEDs

Claculate the space between the Leds and mark the holes for drilling…

Drill the holes…

finished profiles..

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Step 2- Glue LEDs into the holes with superglue

First off, I secure the profile…

Then I use superglue and aplicate some on the LEDs and holes in the profiles. From my experience,
this does not alter the performance of the LEDs, some tables have been running like this for a year without
negative side effects..

finished profiles with all LEDs glued…

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Step 3- Soldering, wiring and resistors

I bend the legs of the LEDs so that I can directly solder the legs together..

now the legs are soldered together and the trim the excess parts..

I then start wiring up the groups at the anode (+) legs with wires..

then the cathode (-) legs, to which I solder the resistors as well….
Unfortunately, you cant see the in the picture, they are under the heat shrink tube…

Before I heat up the shrink tube, I check if the LEDs are working.
I hook up the the frames to a power source and use my mobile camera
(no, does not have to be an iPhone) and see if they are slightly glowing.
If some are not, its still easy to fix them..

In the last step, I use blow-dreyer to heat up the tube and let it shrink around..