IAD MT08 - Power Supply

tim.roth — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 10:31:59 +0000

So now that we have finished the LED Frame, we will need some kind of
power supply inside the table. Like many other DIYs, I use a standard
PC power supply. They are cheap, available everywhere and can be used
for the LED frame and some fans as well.

Since most modern pc use a lot of power, you can really go for the cheapest,
low power model you can find. They all delivery plenty of power for my use
anyway. Maybe you even have a spare from an old pc, so you might not even
have to buy one at all.

1. This is the cheapest one I could find, still with 400W !

2. If you plug this into a socket, the power supply will atumaticaly turn
itself of, because it isn`t connected to the standard pc power interface.
So we will have to connect two wires, in order to keep this from
happening. So we will have to identify the two wires that we need…
On the image below, you can see the color coding of the wires on
this power supply. We are looking for the one that says “P-ON”, which
will be the green wire (”GRN”). We have to hook this up to a black
wire (the negative), and then the power supply will stop shutting
itself of right away…

3. Find the green wire, cut and connect
You can see the green wire, right on the huge connectorof the power
supply. Now cut the green and one black wire (doesn`t matter which
black one, they all work), remove the shielding and connect them together.
You can solder or use one of these screw connection things, as I did.

4. Identify the wires we need for the LED frame..
Since my led frame uses a 12 V current, we have to identify the wire that
can deliver 12 V. So we take another look at the color coding on the power
supply. As you can see, its not on the overview (2nd picture of post).

For this particular power supply, the current is written right onto the wire.
In my case, its the yellow one. Actually, on most power supplies I used, the
yellow one is 12V. Be sure to check on yours though! To make sure that I
got the correct current, I use a multitmeter as shown below. The yellow one
does deliver 12V, the other end goes into a black one.

Later on, we will also use this power supply for some of the fans and
tamron lens… more on that later

IAD MT08 - The Box

tim.roth — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:43:10 +0000

Undoubtedly, one of the most important parts of any MT system is the box. Because
this is not really my field, we asked a fellow industrial design firm in Zurich to assist
us in the design and construction of the box. Plans where made with my inputs, and
finally handed over to a local carpenter for the actual assembly. The box is hand crafted,
painted and delivered to us. Since this was done from an external pertner, I can not
share the exact plans or details. But I can say, that the box is exactly 70cm high, which
is the height most “normal” tables are too.

Company who desigend the box: Plasmadesign GmbH Zurich (http://www.plasmadesign.ch/)

Some Images of the box, when it is still empty and ready for rigging in the technical stuf

First, the plans where made by plasmadesign, according to my measurements (projector distance etc..)

Outside of the box, notice the wooden platform on which it sits. It has some wheels attached to the
bottom, this allows my to move it around easily. Very handy when instering the hardware..
You can also see the four precut holes on the back. We will use four PC fans to make sure that it doesn`t
get to hot in there.

Top View of the box. You can already see the cutout for the projected image, and a frame on the
far side, where I will insert some speakers and more fans.

Of course, we have a door on the backside, so we can acces the insides while it is running…

View from the inside…

IAD MT08 - The LED Frame

tim.roth — Thu, 05 Mar 2009 16:44:27 +0000

I first start with the LED Frame, which is still handbuild by myself.

In retrospect, I would use SMD Leds today, probably already assembled and
ready to go in LED strips. But since I would like to make all tables exactly the
same, I still use normal IR-Leds and a custom build frame. This is probably
the obvious choice for the DIY guy, and its actually quite fun if you only do it once.
In my case this is the 5th Frame I assembled, so the fun is… well not quite as fun
anymore

Material list for the frame:
- Aluminum profiles from local hardware/Home Depot style shop (1cmx1cm)
- Osram SFH-485p Leds (my Setup uses 166 LEDs for a 64×48cm Screen)
- 15 Ohm resitors (24)
- Electrical wires, soldering iron etc…

LED Array Wizard
Using the excellent LED Array Wizard -> link
I calculate the size of resistor I will need.
The following values have to be inserted into the form:

12 = Source voltage (Volts)
1.5 = diode forward voltage (Volts)
100 = diode forward current (mA)
49 = number of LEDs in your Array

Since I use LEDs on all four sides of the Sheet, I use 49 LEDs on the longer sides
and 35 on the shorter sides. By using multiples of seven, I can use the same type
of resistor on both sides.. This is a personal choice, and when you type in the values,
the wizzard gives you some alternatives as well..

See this Screenshot of the result form the wizzard:

The Leds…

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Step 1 - Make the profile for the LEDs

Claculate the space between the Leds and mark the holes for drilling…

Drill the holes…

finished profiles..

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Step 2- Glue LEDs into the holes with superglue

First off, I secure the profile…

Then I use superglue and aplicate some on the LEDs and holes in the profiles. From my experience,
this does not alter the performance of the LEDs, some tables have been running like this for a year without
negative side effects..

finished profiles with all LEDs glued…

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Step 3- Soldering, wiring and resistors

I bend the legs of the LEDs so that I can directly solder the legs together..

now the legs are soldered together and the trim the excess parts..

I then start wiring up the groups at the anode (+) legs with wires..

then the cathode (-) legs, to which I solder the resistors as well….
Unfortunately, you cant see the in the picture, they are under the heat shrink tube…

Before I heat up the shrink tube, I check if the LEDs are working.
I hook up the the frames to a power source and use my mobile camera
(no, does not have to be an iPhone) and see if they are slightly glowing.
If some are not, its still easy to fix them..

In the last step, I use blow-dreyer to heat up the tube and let it shrink around..

IAD MT08 - Specs

tim.roth — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 14:50:52 +0000

Some of the table specs and materials:

- Projector 3m DMS 700/710 Short Throw at 1024×768 pixels
- PTGrey Firefly MV (640×480 @ 60Hz, 320×240 @ 120Hz)
- Osram SFH-485p Leds
- EndLighten “L” Plexiglass, 10mm thick
- Lumin Contrast Screen
- PC Power supply
- MacMini 2 Ghz, 2GB RAM
- Pabst PC Fans (6 Alltogether)
- Sony ZRS 510 Speaker System
- Cables etc..

Physical Specs:
- width: 76.4 cm, depth: 73.4 cm, height : 70cm
- screensize: 64 x 48cm (ca. 32 Inches diagonal)
- custom, handmade Casing, Designed by Plasmadesign Zürich
- custom flightcase for transports

Some pics from the finished system:

IAD MT08 - a step by step guide

tim.roth — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 09:06:57 +0000

I am in the process of building another (the fourth one) IAD MT08 Table, which uses the
DSI (Diffused Surface Illumination) setup. Since I get a lot of question regarding certain
details on hardware, I will now share some infos on how I build one.

I will start of with the LED Frame and will continue to post on other steps on getting the table
complete. Remember that this system was designed over a year ago, so that some parts/ hardware choices
will be outdated. I will comment on these and offer some ideas on how I would do certain things today.

I hope this will answer some questions that arise when building a DSI System.

Stay tuned:)

Cubes going to miami…

tim.roth — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:31:26 +0000

For the DesignMiami (part of ArtMiami), we are doing a little installaion with two cubes and some nice screens. Some pictures of the building process of the new cubes and the packing

DSI - Diffused Surface Illumination

tim.roth — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 16:23:17 +0000

The main Problem with most Diffused Illumination Setups is getting IR Light to spread evenly across
the screen surface. Normally, you use a couple of IR Illuminators as a IR source, and it takes lots of
effort to get the IR even, while also dealing with possible reflections from the Illuminators. But now
I found a material that make this a lot easier!

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Introducing DSI
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Instead of using Illuminators as a IR Source, DSI uses a special acylic to distribute the IR evenly across
the surface. So you basically use your standard FTIR setup with an LED Frame, and just switch to a
special acrylic, that does not frustrate the IR light from the edges. This acrylic uses small particles that
are inside the material, acting like thousands of small mirrors. So when you shine IR light into the
edges of this material, the light gets redirected and spread to the surface of the acrylic.

Illustrations showing the different approches:

FTIR:

DI:

DSI:

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Pros & Cons
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Pro

no problems getting the light even, easy setup
FTIR setup can be converted to DI easily
no need to build a case for the setup (like other DI setups)
fiducial tracking possible

Con

less contrast compared to normal DI setups, because the
plexiglass also redirects the IR towards the camera
potentially more problems with ambient IR because of less contrast
possible size restrictions because of the plexiglass softness

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
How to make your own setup
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

First of all, you need to get hold of the “Endlighten” plexiglas. I got my material from
a local acrylic dealer in Zurich. Since he didnÂ´t have the material in stock, I had to order
a pretty big sheet (about 2×3m) which cost about 700 euros. I pretty muched used all
the material in the end, and my university paid for the costs (so I didnÂ´t care..). If
you live in Germany or France, you can order directly from the “evonic” webshop,
otherwise ask you local dealer/distributer for ordering possiblities.

Evonic makes some different types of Endlighten. These vary in their thickness and also
in the amount of particles inside the material. Available thickness ranges between
6-10mm, follwing “L”, “XL” and “XXL” for particle amount. I have tested the 6mm
“L” and 10mm “XL” type. The 6 mm is to flexible for a table setup, the 10 mm works
nicely.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Handling the material
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Because the plexiglas is softer than normal plexiglas, you really have to watch out when
working with the material. It scratches quite easily and these scratches show up on the
projecton and during camera tracking. So watch out…

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
LED Frame
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

You can use your “normal” FTIR LED frame for this setup. My tests showed that shining
light into all four edges of the sheet works better than only through two sides. It works with
two sides, but better with four! I also tried increasing the number of leds, which makes a
brighter image, but no contrast change. So potientally, brighter blobs means better recognition
with ambient IR. For example, on two setups I used about 100 Leds for all four sides on a active
screen size of 64×48cm. This may seem like to much, and thats probably right too! You could
use less, just make sure all four sides have leds.

Like most people, I use the Osram SFH-485 and Osram 485-P. I would recommen the “P” type
because the angle is wider than the normal 485s. The wider angle helps distribute the light on
the edges better so that the distance between leds and the active screen size is kept smaller.
Normal 485Â´s work as well, but if you can chosse, I would recommend the “485P”.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Screen vs Sheet Dimensions
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

You have to have some extra sheet material around the edges, so the ir from the leds can
spread evenly into the material. This also depends on the angle of the leds, so the 485 P need
less space (because of the wider angle), while the 485 nedd more (narrow angle). I would
recommend about 2-4 cm extra on all sides. So a active screen size of 64×48 cm would need a
sheet of 70×54 cm (with 3cm on all sides). That should be enough for both 485 and 485p leds.
These are just some numbers I found during testing, so other leds could behave differently.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Other Components
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
All other components (Projectors, Cameras, mirrors IR filters, etc…) are the same as other
multitouch setups. Either check Nuigroup.com or my blog for some info. The same projection
screen material that are used for DI can be used on DSI setups. I have tested tracing paper,
lee filter, geriets optitrans and lumin contrast screen. They all work good with DSI, but prices
and image quality vary…

Download the technical information about “EndLighten” from the Evonik website: link
German Evonik online shop to order EndLighten: link /// Same in French: link

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
CamCaptures and Video
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Some Captures from my Setup with the FireflyMV from PtGrey:

Capture with all Settings set to default (auto):

Capture with Settings adjusted (manual):

Video camcapture:

[See post to watch QuickTime movie]

MS Surface, hands on!

tim.roth — Mon, 12 May 2008 17:24:17 +0000

Mhhh, this post was somehow hacked, I guess

Anyhow, heres the video:

two boxes finished…

tim.roth — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:25:07 +0000

I will post more info soon, now for some pics:)

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DI tutorial from c-base

tim.roth — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 09:26:40 +0000

Since I have been recieving quite a few question about DI setups and how to build
them, I wanted to point everybody to a guide from the c-base group. They have build
a really nice table quite some time ago. and took the time to explain their setup
in detail. I habe the chance to meet them, during a visit in Berlin and their table is
pretty nice. So here the link: DI Tutorial by cBase

Just some difference from my setup..
1. They are using Security Glass (4mm thick) and their projection surface/diffuser is
glued to the bottom. This way, you donÂ´t have to worry about reflections from the illuminators.
So you are touching the glass with your fingers, which actually feels pretty nice, although I
still prefer to touch the projection surface myself…
2. They use Gerriets Optitrans as a projection Material, which works really nice. I kind of
looks like rosco grey, and feels like it too. I recieved a sample yesterday and it works very well.
I would advise to get this, instead of the Lee Filter I was using before…

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